What is Dermarolling? The Ultimate Guide

Woman dermarolling face

Dermarolling: the process of punching dozens of tiny holes in your face, in the hopes that it grows back smoother and plumper.

 

Seriously though, dermarolling is an excellent way to stimulate collagen and elastin production. It also helps significantly reduce scarring and pigmentation. 

 

But what actually is it? A dermaroller is a small device with a rotating end consisting of hundreds of tiny needles. This is then rolled up and down the skin to create minute holes in the surface layer.

 

Whilst similar to microneedling, dermarolling is deemed safe enough to do at home, whereas microneedling will always need to be conducted by a professional aesthetician. This is mainly due to the length of the needles penetrating your skin. Generally at home dermaroller needles are around 0.25mm but can go up to a maximum of 0.5mm, professional microneedles can reach a whopping length of 4mm!

 

Dermarollers can be purchased from most beauty shops and even Amazon. The device is relatively inexpensive costing anywhere from £5 to £75, however the higher priced options seem to only come with better packaging. Your purchase should consist of the roller, a case and sometimes additional needle heads. 

 

One thing you should look out for is the material of the needles, they usually come in either stainless steel or titanium. It’s up to you which one you choose as they both have their benefits, stainless steel is inherently more sterile, whereas titanium is much more durable and won’t become blunt as quickly.

 

How does it work?

Rolling a bunch of needles up and down your face sounds terrifying, however dermarolling doesn’t actually cause that much trauma to your skin, as the needles aren’t that long. 

 

The small holes prompt your skin to regenerate leading to the production of more collagen and elastin, your body’s natural anti-aging substances. It also creates an easy path for serums to travel further into your skin, hopefully producing better results. The perfect combination for wrinkles and scars.

 

Which dermaroller should I get?

As I mentioned above, there are different types of dermaroller’s you can get, based on the length and material of the needle. Whether you choose stainless steel or titanium, the biggest decision is in the size of the needle. 

 

It’s obvious to say, the longer the needle the more benefits you will see. For general skin plumping it’s best to use a 0.25mm needle, however if you have specific acne scars or wrinkles you want to get rid of, opt for a slightly larger 0.5mm to ensure maximum efficiency. 

 

It’s worth noting that if you get a smaller 0.25mm dermaroller it is advised to use this once a week to start off with, working your way up to two to three times a week. If you go for a 0.5mm roller, only use it a maximum of once every three weeks to give your skin a chance to properly heal. Anything above 0.5mm should be left to the professionals. 

 

Picking the right serum

Choosing which products to use with a dermaroller is important. 

 

Whilst you might want to get your anti-aging retinoids deep into your skin for the greatest effect, don’t. Vitamin C, AHA’s or retinoids are a big no-no when it comes to dermarolling. These exfoliating ingredients will be too harsh when penetrating your skin, and should only be used on the skin’s surface. 

 

Hydrating serums such as Hyaloronic Acid will be the best choice to seal in moisture and help with the regeneration process.

 

How to use your dermaroller

Mastering the dermaroller is pretty simple. Before you get started clean your device with an alcohol based solution, rinse with hot water and let dry.

 

  • Make sure you have cleaned your skin thoroughly, then apply your serum of choice.

     

  • Without using too much pressure, roll the dermaroller horizontally, lifting the device and going back to the starting point instead of rolling back and forth.

  • Do this four or five times before moving on to the next section.

  • Once you have completed a section, go back and do the same but roll vertically.

  • Finally, do the same whilst rolling diagonally. 

  • Once done, make sure your hands are clean and reapply your serum.

Don’t over do it, four or five times is enough to get the desired results.

 

How long until I see results?

With continuous use you should be able to see slight improvements in your skin after three months. For scarring and signs of aging it may take up to six months before you really notice any prominent changes.

 

A word of caution

  • Do not use anywhere near your eyes or lips. 

  • Do not use on active acne, it can spread the bacteria all over your face.

  • Do not put makeup, or anything that will block your pores on for 24 hours after the treatment. 

  • Your skin may go red and sting straight after you’ve used the dermaroller, but don’t worry. This is normal and should subside in a few hours.

  • Always clean your dermaroller before and after each use.

If you’re unsure whether dermarolling is for you, speak to your dermatologist.

Wondering why your skin is suddenly acting up? You might have lockdown skin. Read about it here.

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